Buckle (Belt buckle)

Description

This ornamented gold buckle is more than a wearable memento produced in the 39th state by a leading jeweler, its design makes visible a personal connection to the region's emerging identity. Engraved with an abbreviated image of the California state seal of Athena and a grizzly bear, the buckle was likely produced from gold ore mined and refined there. The buckle's chape records a patent (No. 80924) received by William Cummings of Sacramento on August 11, 1868. His design for an "Improved Belt-Buckle" incorporated three small rings on the back plate to prevent the belt from slipping off the tines. The line drawing submitted for the patent has a very similar frame outline with four teardrop-shaped holes. A connection between Robert Gray & Company and William Cummings deserves investigation. Gray's jewelry and watch business was then located in San Francisco at 616 Merchant Street. He placed an advertisement seeking to hire "first-class" engravers in late August 1868—less than two weeks after Cummings received the patent. Similar buckles marked for the California Jewelry Company share characteristics with this example, testifying to the design’s appeal.